Everybody wears Jeans

Jeans represent democracy in fashion. Giorgio Armani

Nudie Jeans Co.

Another brand that decided to use just organic cotton for its jeans production is Nudie Jeans Co.
Here is what they say about themselves!

THIS IS NUDIE

We love jeans, a passion we share with everyone who mourns a pair of worn out jeans as a close friend. Jeans share the same soul and attitude as music. The inspiration springs from the same dreams. As a true jeans brand we are not looking for the short-term trends. The inspiration is far from glamour and catwalks. The collection is tight, like a rock band, reflecting the feeling of everyday life.

Design goes beyond creating just a product that serves to fulfil a need or a function. The philosophy of Nudie jeans is to become part of your dreams. Jeans have a natural built-in dream and attitude.
Nudie will stay true to jeans and all about jeans.

Nudie is the ”naked truth about denim”. Denim has the ability to age beautifully – formed by its user into a second skin, naked and personal. The longer it lives the more character it gets. The indigo is a living colour that fades and gives the denim its character. The more you wear your jeans the more beautiful they get. Jeans are more than just a piece of clothing.

CODE OF CONDUCT

Most companies demand a good product and high quality at a reasonable price from their suppliers. We at Nudie Jeans also believe in taking greater responsibility for our actions. This includes much more than just good products at the right price. Our consumers are not just interested in the quality of the products they buy; they also care about the work behind the brand and the social and environmental conditions of its production.

We at Nudie Jeans want sustainable, healthy development for people and the environment. We want to help improve conditions in the garment industry. That's why we want everyone who works with us to be concerned about human rights, wages, working hours and social accountability.

All of our suppliers must comply with our Code of Conduct, which you can find over to the right.
Our code of conduct is available in the following languages: English, Swedish, Italian, Portugese.

ORGANIC DENIM

Denim is made of cotton, which causes great damage to our environment both in terms of water consumption (7000 to 29.000 litres of water for each kilogram of ready garment) and in terms of poisonous substances and insecticides. Cotton fields stand for 25% of all insecticides worldwide! Air, water and other natural resources are critical to any kind of future, and therefore essential to the future of business. In denim production we see a lot of potential to make a difference for the environment.

Our denim producers are ahead on developing organic denim, both out of 100% organic cotton and as blended yarn, where they blend in organic cotton into the normal production. Every step of the production follows detailed and accurate rules that makes it organic denim. The cotton comes from organic production, and the spinning, dyeing and finishing of the yarn is also carried out according to ecological procedures.

Making use of ecological stuff, like potato starch and pre-reduced indigo, any kind of chemical stuff is excluded from the schedule of operation, in order to respect these principles to 100%.

Kuyichi – organic denim jeans

ABOUT KUYICHI

In the year 2000 the founders of Kuyichi, NGO Solidaridad, wanted to introduce organic cotton in the clothing industry. During their experience with the development of fair trade organic coffee and fruit business in Latin America, they found the cotton industry caused a lot of pollution and poverty among indigenous Indians and factory workers. Solidaridad decided to make a change. First, Solidaridad tried to convince the big players in the denim industry to use organic cotton, in order to improve the working and living conditions in developing countries. None of the brands were interested and Solidaridad started their own fashion brand in response. In 2001 Kuyichi was born.

Kuyichi is 1st for organic. Their innovative role in exploring and developing new sustainable garments production, has lead to a new accepted conscious approach in denim & fashion. They aim to make their collection as sustainable as possible, using close to 100% sustainable materials! They are constantly experimenting on new sustainable concepts like recycled polyester, Tencel®, spare denim and hemp.

Next to the environment, Kuyichi takes care about the social circumstances of the people who grow our cotton or make our garments. We work in close cooperation with Made-by to certify our suppliers according to the social standards approved by Made-by such as SA8000, Fairwear, BSCI and Wrap.

They are completely transparent of their sustainable status through they made-by track and trace and scorecard, Made-by publishes the scorecard online and shows:
• the percentage of certified factories
• percentage of organic cotton
• classification of our sustainable fabrics

Since the launch Kuyichi has rapidly expanded and is now represented in more than 500 leading stores across Europe. Kuyichi is planning to open several shops and shop-in-shops across Europe from August 2010 onward.

‘Being fair, being real and inspire other to do the same.’ That’s their philosophy. ‘Love the world!’

VISION & MISSION – what kuyichi aims for

VISION
Kuyichi is a Style_Conscious denim brand. They create style. They are conscious of how they create it.
They believe in choosing fashion with a conscience and a purpose. Set apart with a style that’s strong, sexy and provocative.
Put together in a chain of Fair Trade.
Look good, feel good, why not?

MISSION
Being fair, being real and inspire other brands to do the same.
That’s their philosophy. Love the World!

LAUNCH & HERITAGE – where kuyichi comes from

LAUNCH
In the year 2000, Dutch NGO Solidaridad started developing organic cotton in Peru and introducing it to the fashion industry. None of the big brands is interested in using organic cotton. Solidaridad therefore decided to start its own brand. In 2001 Kuyichi is born.

HERITAGE
The name Kuyichi is derived from the Peruvian god of the rainbow who brought colour in society as well. Why Peru? The first organic cotton they used was Tanguis cotton from Oro Blanco in Peru.

THE PRODUCT – brand tree

The Kuyichi brand is built up from three collections.
Pure Denim is the base of the collection, based on sustainable fabrics and authentic design inspiration. Pure Denim offers a total range of tops, bottoms and accessories for both men and women.
The Pure Premium line is the purest denim line with exclusive washes from Italy and Japan in the most authentic fits and constructions.
Pure Plus is the exclusive women only line with more advanced feminine cuts and fabrics.

COLLECTIONS

pure denim

Being the first organic jeans brand, since its launch in 2001, Kuyichi keeps on striving for more sustainable ways of creating high quality products. Pure Denim are tops and bottoms on a medium to high level of the denim market. Including a diverse NOS offer.


pure plus

Pure Plus is our lab for testing and experimenting with new fits and sustainable materials for women, taking women’s fashion denim to a more forward level.


pure premium

Pure Premium is the high level eco-luxury denim line, based on Kuyichi sustainable denim styles but made from premium fabrics and state of the art washes. Pure Premium denims and tops produced in Italy and Japan.


CARE FOR THE ENVIRONMENT 1st organic

Kuyichi was one of the first brands to develop connections in organic cotton in 2001. Kuyichi makes her collection as sustainable as possible, using close to 100% sustainable materials.

WHY SUSTAIN ABLE?
Kuyichi is constantly experimenting on new sustainable concepts like recycled polyester, Tencel® and hemp. Chemicals are harmful and dangerous for the environment and people. Organic cotton is grown on chemical and pesticides free soil.

WHAT KUYIC HI DO ES
– Denim production water is recycled
– Garments are recycled for re-use
– Recycle pet-bottles into jackets and jeans.
– Kuyichi uses recycled vegetable tanned leather patches, recycled polyester labels, recycled paper packaging…. and much more!

SUSTAINABLE CONCEPTS OF KUYICHI

Kuyichi started with organic cotton in 2001, but offers now 11 innovative sustainable concepts, each branded with their own logo and colour. All concepts are approved by the Made-by sustainable fabric benchmark.

HEMP
The hemp plant provides one of the strongest and most durable natural fibres available. Growing hemp is more sustainable than cotton. The plant grows very quickly, doesn’t need much water and provides 2,5 times more fibre than the regular cotton plant. Kuyichi uses a blend of hemp with organic cotton or Tencel®.

ORGANIC COTTON
Did you know that more than 25% of all insecticides used globally are used for growing cotton? These chemicals pollute soil and water, kill wildlife and are harmful to the people and land they work on. Organic cotton guarantees it is been made with respect to the people and environment. Kuyichi is the first jeans brand to make ‘Pure Denim’ out of organic cotton.

LINEN
Linen is made from the fibre of the flax plant and was the first vegetable fibre known to mankind. It’s also the strongest and has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton! The process for cultivating linen is just as clean as organic cotton, but with less water. By using this cotton / linen fabric we use two sustainable materials while creating a great product, with a rich hand feel.

SPARE
What to do with leftover fabrics? Kuyichi re-uses fabric leftovers and yarns from previous collections or dead stock and turns them into spare denim and tees. It is our goal to use as many existing materials as possible, to reduce waste disposal, produce less commodoties and respect the environment in all possible ways!

TENCEL®
Tencel® is a man-made fiber, made from the wood pulp of eucalyptus trees which are harvested from sustainable tree plantations. The fiber is produced in an advanced, bleach free process, in which 99.8% of all solvents and chemicals used are recovered and recycled. Tencel® is a very durable fabric that is soft, very absorbent and wrinkel-free. The process uses energy and water economically and has a minimal impact on the environment.

RECYCLED WOOL
More than 1 million tons of textiles are thrown away in the trash bin by households. That’s a waste! Conventional wool production uses lots of chemicals on the sheep to kill ticks and to clean the wool. This is harmful for the sheep and the land they live on. Therefore Kuyichi loves to recycle wool to reduce wool production.

RECYCLED POLYESTER
Who would have ever thought that PET bottles could be so use full. Millions of discarded water and soda PET bottles are collected and sold to factories by people in Taiwan, who can this way earn a bit of extra income. The bottles then are sorted and processed into PET fibres, spun to become yarns, and after that woven or knitted into a new, one of a kind fabric. Imagine this: 25 bottles for a Kuyichi jacket! This CO2 released in this process is minimal and Kuyichi also helps to downgrade the pollution of waste.

VEGETABLE TANNED LEATHER
This leather garment has been prepared in a very interesting and natural way. After the leather skins are cleaned and prepared they are tanned with a special bark and juices from trees to create the beautiful natural colours. The skins are then treated in a sun bath to intensify the colours, the use of different polishes and oils guarantee a very variety in colours and handfeel.

RECYCLED COTTON
Recycled cotton is recovered cotton that would otherwise be wasted during the spinning, weaving and cutting process. This ‘waste’ is re-spun into new yarn, and the irregular colours and textures of this yarn reveal it’s origins. By recycling cotton waste we conserve landfill space, and we reduce the amount of land, water, energy, pesticides and human labour required for cotton production.

NATURAL DYES
Natural dyes have been used for thousands of years and are a favourable alternative to synthetic dyes, as these create environmental pollution and can cause health problems to the workers that handle it. Natural dyes offer an eco-friendly alternative to the consumer and doesn’t cause allergies. The dyes are from replenishable vegetable, animal or mineral sources. In developing countries with a textile tradition, sustainable harvest and sale of the dye plant create income for many families.

ANDES HANDKNIT
This garment is hand knitted by the indigenous Indians from the Andes mountains in Ecuador. Trained in traditional methods they knit, weave and embroider the garments. Every item proudly sports the name of its producer. In this way Kuyichi is supporting small Andean communities by paying a fair price. So by wearing this knit you look good and feel good at the same time.

Green Jeans

Jeans are the clothes of the people, aren’t they? They’re ubiquitous, innocuous, hard-wearing and low cost per wear. They’re a social leveller (despite the back-pocket prestige granted by some overpriced brands). They’re about anti-conformity: sailors used to wear them, then convicts and cowboys, and of course James Dean. They’ve been a symbol of gender equality since women started wearing them in the ’60s. Few of us could navigate the treacherous roads of daily clothing without them. And unlike those plastic poly-blends, they’re all natural.
But hold on to your rivets: it seems jeans are a habit we need to kick. Dov Charney, the man behind American Apparel, calls cotton “the nicotine of clothing.” And jeans, it seems, are double-strength menthols. No “light” in sight.

Clothing enemy number one

Jeans are sustainability enemy number one. Cotton accounts for only three per cent of the global crop acreage but uses between 15 and 25 per cent of the insecticides and pesticides — “frankencotton,” indeed. Growers use six pounds of pesticides for every acre of the stuff. And cotton is grown on 76 million acres worldwide, which represents approximately 2.4 per cent of global arable land and 40 to 47 per cent of the world’s textiles. Cotton is grown in over 100 countries by approximately 50 million farmers. And the chemicals in this whole process are the worst ones for human and animal health.

Cotton is the reason that Clothes for a Change says sweatshops exist both in factories and fields. Workers suffer health problems at every stage of the cotton growing and refining process. Further, Ronnie Cummins, the national director, says that the U.S. subsidizes its cotton barons — to the tune of four billion dollars a year — who overproduce the crop, using toxic methods. This keeps the price of global cotton at 40 per cent below production rates, which in turn keeps the millions of impoverished cotton farmers and their families, mostly in Africa, Asia and Latin America, even poorer.
Despite that, we have an insatiable appetite for the indigo stuff. In a recent New York Times story, for example, Maisy Gellert, a third grader living in Westchester County, N.Y. said, “I’m very particular, Sevens are the only jeans I actually wear.” Popular brands like Evisu, Blue Blood Denim, Seven for All Mankind, Chip and Pepper, True Religion, Rock and Republic, Citizens of Humanity and others typically cost over $200 US. These brands use extensive chemical processing to create effects like “distressing.” And wearers often say they need new pairs every year to keep up with the changing cut and fabric trends.
Until now, the alternatives have been as exciting as tofu brownies. Brands like Patagonia have had organic jeans but a) they’re about as stylish as a fleece ball gown, and b) you need a loan to afford them.

Organic cotton coming on

But there’s plenty of evidence of increased interest in sustainable fashion. To name just a few examples: FiftyRX3 is a heavy traffic blog where “Jill” documents her own daily efforts to wear reused, recycled and sustainable clothes and highlights sustainable designers. The Sustainable Style Blog tracks designers and new products. TreeHugger often profiles new fashion products. And Paris is featuring a new Ethical Fashion Show this year.
And some style conscious organic jean designers have launched lines. The green truth is starting to be out there.
It’s still a tough gig. Unlike organic food, where there’s some nutritional benefit to the consumer, there’s no “actual” benefit to the buyer from organic clothes. Sure the cotton is often soft — but regular cotton can be Egyptian Pima cotton soft too.
There aren’t yet totally dependent supplies (chemicals make for a more standardized quality). And even though the global organic cotton fibre supply has increased steeply, it’s still about 20 per cent more expensive than regular cotton.

Denim karma

The only payoffs are karma and guilt-free style enjoyment. But it seems the halo benefit is enough for plenty of consumers. Maybe because of denim’s roots. Denim used to be seen as so disruptive, some movie theatres and restaurants banned them. Jeans didn’t used to be about branding, marketing and markup, but were part of a social movement.
People were wary of organic jeans — jeans are more loaded with culture, class and style significance than any other clothing item. Loomstate organic jean designers agree that “socially conscious clothing still conjures images of hemp muumuus and dreadlocked hippies in drug rugs.” And designers know they have to be hurdle clearers: Loomstate’s mission is to make “ecochic” less of an oxymoron.
Those rebranding efforts, along with karma payoffs seem to be enough. Del Forte’s jeans slogan is “organic is beautiful inside and out,” and the jeans sell well. The designer, Tierra Del Forte switched to organic denim since designing with regular denim was “stressful” and she realized she wasn’t “contributing to the world” in a way she could feel good about. In addition to designing a line of new organic jeans, she runs a program called Project Rejeaneration where wearers can send their jeans in for “recycling” when they’ve finished with them. Many people do.
The big news is that it’s no longer simply early adopter, small designers willing to forgo profits for peace of mind. Levi’s is the first mainstream, corporate jeans label to wade into the organic fray. Some styles of their regular Red Tab line and also their super premium line, Levi’s Capital E, will be made with 100 per cent organic cotton starting in November. The eco styles will be sold at a “modest premium” over their “everyday pricing.”

And so goes the quest for the clothing equivalent of hemp brownies that won’t make your bum look big.

How to Create Cut-Off Jean Shorts

Recycle an old or outdated pair of jeans while keeping up with current trends by making your own pair of cut-off jean shorts. While you could pay quite a bit for stylish jean shorts from your favorite trendy store, you can mimic even expensive styles with some planning and some tips to get the finish, as well as the length, you are looking for.

Instructions:

• Step 1
Choose a pair of shorts to use as a cutting guide to create your own cut-off jean shorts. Choose a pair that has the length you want your new shorts to have. They don’t have to be jean shorts; even workout shorts will do.
• Step 2
Line up the hems of both the shorts and the jeans. When both hems are lined up, place the shorts onto the jeans with the back waistbands matching up. Do not line up the front and back waistbands; this will make the leg seams uneven when you cut.
• Step 3
Cut the jeans based on the length of your model shorts. If you plan to create shorts with frayed edges, cut at least 1/2 inch lower than the length of your model shorts. If you want to roll the bottoms of your jean shorts, cut three inches longer than the model shorts. For a sewn seam, cut two inches longer than the model shorts.

• Step 4
For a frayed edge, wash the shorts in the washing machine and run them through the dryer. Every time they go through the washing machine and dryer, the shorts will be more frayed.
• Step 5
If an unsewn rolled edge is desired, put on the shorts and roll the hems to the desired length. Take the shorts off and iron the hems to make the rolled-up portion sturdier.
• Step 6
For a sewn seam, turn the edge of the shorts under one inch and iron. Turn under another inch, iron and sew the seam.

How to Make Ripped Jeans With a Scissors

Rock ‘n Roll stars of the 1960s; a half million people at Woodstock 1969; college students of the l960s and beyond; the grunge trend-setters of the l990s; and the designers, experts in fashion and celebrities of the 21st century all share a common bond: ripped jeans. Whether a strategically placed hole across a thigh and knee or an all-out treatment with dozens of rips, ripped jeans make a strong fashion statement. Creating a look right out of a fashion magazine requires only some well-planned cuts.

Instructions:
• Step 1
Look through fashion magazines for photos of celebrities and models in ripped jeans to find the look you want to duplicate. Or search online. Take a close look at the amount of fraying around each cut. Decide whether you are looking at slits or holes.
• Step 2
Try on jeans and imagine them ripped. A pair from a thrift shop could be a better option than ones from your closet.
• Step 3
Sit, stand and move in the jeans you have picked. Then, as you wear the jeans, have a friend mark horizontal rips for you using white chalk. (Offer to return the favor.)
• Step 4
Take off the jeans. For a more worn look, sand each area you are going to cut with rough sandpaper. You may need to go over the area again with white chalk. Place a 2-by-4 wood block behind the denim so you don’t cut through to the other side of the leg and then make your cut with scissors or a knife. Complete all your cuts. For larger holes, make 1/8-inch diagonally cuts at the ends of your horizontal cuts. Use the end of your scissors or knife to start fraying each cut.

• Step 5
Throw the jeans into your washer. Add some bleach if you want a more distressed look. Or splash some bleach on them for another look. Then, dry the jeans.
• Step 6
Pull the jeans out of the dryer and see what you have accomplished. Leave all the frayed pieces alone. The more often you wash and wear the jeans, the more prominent the rips will become.

And here below, I’ll post also a video of cutting a pair of jeans, so you’ll see how to do it, and if you’ll like it… you can also try it! I think it’s really easy and it’s a good way to make your own personalized ripped jeans!! Enjoy 😉

How jeans are made

The jeans production process is in actual facts made of different stages which come one after the other in order to result in the finished product. In general, almost every type of jeans is produced similar to another. The production doesn’t change a lot. Here I’ll write about a typical jeans production process!

First, a pattern maker draws a jeans pattern based upon measurements (of samples) that were supplied by the jeans designer or the buyer’s merchandiser.

It takes approximately 15 pieces that make up a standard pattern for a pair of standard 5 pocket jeans.

A person, or a computer program, will then calculate the optimal fabric consumption by puzzling all the pieces of the jeans pattern on a paper that is placed on top of the denim fabric. After drawing the cutting lines onto this paper:

the fabric is ready to be cut, the denim is laid out in layers on a cutting table. Up to 100 layers of denim are stacked and weights are put on top of it to hold the denim fabric in place, while it is being cut.


The separate parts of the jeans are cut with a textile cutting machine and each piece is then marked with it’ s size, using a piece of chalk so it won’t show after washing.
All of these pieces of cut denim are then put into bundles by size.

It takes about 1.6 meters of denim fabric, several hundred meters of sewing thread, 6 rivets, 1 or 5 jeans buttons, 4 labels (usually imitation leather), and optionally a zipper to make a pair of jeans. An average jeans factory can make about 2.500 pair of jeans per day.
There are different machines for each handling.




On average, it will take about 15 minutes and 12 steps to make one pair of blue jeans.
After the denim jeans are sewn together, they go out to a jeans washing plant where they are washed in what could best be described as: standard, yet very big, washing machines.

A stonewash for 150 pairs of jeans takes 150 kilos of pumice stone and more than 750 liters of water. Depending on how faded the look will have to be, they will be washed somewhere between 30 minutes and 6 hours.
After the stone-washing process the denim garment is inspected for faults and loose threads are cut.

Next the button(s) and rivets are placed using a special type of press.

After that the jeans go on to the garment packing room where final quality inspection takes place and paper tags and labels are placed or attached.

A typical pair of jeans will have a hang tag, joker ticket, pocket flasher, leg sticker, inside care label with product of origin and assorted product id tags. When all is done, the jeans will be placed in a poly bag with proper warning text and packed in a box or bag, depending on the destination country, as some countries or territories have more strict packing regulations than others.


Here below it’s a video that shows the whole process: from the cotton plantation to a pair of blue jeans! I think it’s very interesting and also if it’s a bit long, it is worth taking a look on it 😉

How to size jeans

If you want to do your own jeans, or just learn a bit more how the sizes work here are some useful advises for size them!
Finding the right size is important when you want to be looking good in your jeans. There is no use for you to spend money for some expensive and well-designed jeans if the size doesn’t fit you well. Here are some tips of size jeans for you.
The best way to determine a size that will fit is to go to the closet for your favorite pair, and that is if you favorite it because you feel like it fits you the best and not because it shows other the most (that’s another story).
Make sure you button and zip the jeans before laying them out completely flat, legs spread and straight on a flat surface.
I suggest that you stretch the jeans in the area and direction you are planning to measure. Stretching makes sure that you are measuring all the material, it straightens the denim and you stretch the jeans back to the “wearing size” and not that just-dried-in-the-dryer-tighter-fit.
1. To measure your waist size stretch the waistband 1-2 times, let it relax, then measure horizontally across the inside of the jeans. Double the measurement for the circumference of the waist.
2. Upper hips: Measure horizontally across openings of front pockets, right to left edge of the jeans. Double for the circumference.
3. Lower hips: Use same procedure as #2. Measure horizontally across jeans, 1-2″ above bottom of zipper. Double for circumference.
4. Thigh: Measure horizontally across the thigh at 3-4″ below the crotch seam. Double for circumference.
5. Front rise: On the front of the jeans measure vertically from crotch seam to the top of the waist band.
6. Back rise: Measure from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband on the back of the jean.
7. Inseam: Measure from the crotch seam to the bottom of the leg. Straighten the seam down the leg to get a better measurement.
8. Bottom opening: Measure the flattened leg from side to side on the inside of the opening and double for circumference.

Here are some picture to show you, which part of jeans we’re giving names to:







How do you know if you’ve gotten the right size?
Your new jeans should:
• Be just a little bit longer than you need
• Be the right length for the shoes or boots that you plan to wear them with
• Not wrinkle or fold excessively, which would indicate a problem area where they are too tight.
• The zipper, or buttoned fly, should lie flat
• You should be able to sit down or crouch in them comfortably, without your rear end peeking out.
• Low risers don’t necessarily have to expose your rear. If they do, you need a higher cut in the back or that pair is too small. Another brand may offer what you need.
• Your waist button should snap easily (without having to lie down)
• The pockets should also lie flat. If they don’t, they may not be the right cut for your body type.
Pull them up as high as they go, then crouch in them. How do they feel when you walk around? They should be snug but comfortable. This is how you should feel all day long. After all, what makes jeans so fabulous is their ability to let us look and feel great without sacrificing comfort.

Here is an example of women’s jeans size chart: